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As I have consistently discussed in my three books and in many posts in this newsletter, there is overwhelming evidence for the overall health-benefit of a largely plant-based diet, an essential component of the traditional Mediterranean lifestyle.

“…evidence has emerged to demonstrate how modern chemical agriculture treats the soil in which these plant-based foods are grown … influences the health benefits of our vegetables and fruits…”

However, I have also emphasized the importance of not only what you eat, but also where your food comes from and how it is grown. More and more evidence has emerged to demonstrate how modern chemical agriculture treats the soil in which these plant-based foods are grown, including microplastic-contaminated water, chemical fertilizers (suppressing soil microbial interactions with the roots of plants), and herbicide and pesticide residues, influences the health benefits of the vegetables and fruits that are grown in this contaminated environment.

A recent article in the New York Times focuses on the disturbing story of one of these chemicals, PFAS, which has found its way into modern agriculture and into our food chain. The article also discusses the secrecy of corporations and failures of the FDA (presumably through massive lobbying efforts) that have hidden this information from the consumer and allowed the problem to persist.

How “Forever Chemicals” Are Contaminating Our Farmland

In the early 2000s, scientists at 3M made a concerning discovery: a class of nearly indestructible chemicals, known as PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances), was showing up in sewage sludge across the United States. These chemicals, widely used in nonstick cookware, stain-resistant carpets, and other consumer products, are now recognized as highly toxic. They are associated with severe health risks, including cancer, birth defects, and immune system disorders.

“…sewage sludge, containing high levels of PFAS, was being recycled as fertilizer on farmland—a practice encouraged by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).”

What made this discovery even more troubling and hard to believe was the fact that sewage sludge, containing high levels of PFAS, was being recycled as fertilizer on farmland—a practice encouraged by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

PFAS, often referred to as “forever chemicals,” are synthetic compounds that do not break down in the environment. They can accumulate in soil, water, plants, and animals, eventually making their way into the food chain. Exposure to PFAS has been linked to numerous health issues, including developmental delays in children, thyroid disorders, and various types of cancer.

“[Even though 3M] did share its findings with the EPA, …the agency has continued to promote the use of sewage sludge as fertilizer without mandating testing for PFAS.”

Although 3M scientists raised alarms about the dangers of PFAS contamination in sewage sludge as early as 2003, their research was never widely published. Apparently, the company did share its findings with the EPA, but the agency has continued to promote the use of sewage sludge as fertilizer without mandating testing for PFAS.

Sewage sludge, also known as biosolids, is treated human waste used as fertilizer. While this practice helps reduce landfill waste and the need for synthetic fertilizers, it also spreads the contaminants present in modern sewage. These include PFAS, heavy metals, and other chemicals from household products, factories, and businesses.

“…millions of acres across the U.S. have been treated with sludge fertilizer, and farmers often remain unaware of the potential contamination.”

In Maine, testing revealed high levels of PFAS in farmland treated with sludge fertilizer. This discovery led the state to ban the use of sludge on its fields and initiate testing for PFAS contamination. However, Maine remains the only state to take such comprehensive action.

In contrast, millions of acres across the U.S. have been treated with sludge fertilizer, and farmers often remain unaware of the potential contamination. In 2018 alone, more than 2 million dry tons of sewage sludge were spread across nearly 5 million acres of farmland. Despite growing evidence of health and environmental risks, the EPA has been slow to act.

According to the author of the NYT article, several researchers, like David Lewis, Rolf Halden, and Christopher Higgins, have presented research confirming that PFAS contamination in sludge is widespread and that these chemicals do not break down during wastewater treatment. Despite presenting their findings to the EPA, these early whistleblowers encountered little action or interest.

“The slow response to PFAS contamination can be traced back to decades of corporate secrecy and regulatory challenges.”

The slow response to PFAS contamination can be traced back to decades of corporate secrecy and regulatory challenges. For years, 3M and other chemical manufacturers downplayed the risks of PFAS, even as their own research revealed the chemicals’ toxicity. The movie Dark Waters dramatizes corporate secrecy and whistleblower attempts at DuPont, another major chemical corporation involved in the PFAS contamination issue.

DuPont and 3M are both major chemical companies that have been heavily involved in the manufacturing of PFAS and have faced significant legal action together due to widespread contamination of water supplies with these chemicals, with DuPont often purchasing PFAS compounds from 3M to use in their products like Teflon. Essentially, they are both considered key players in the PFAS contamination issue, often being sued alongside each other due to their shared history with these chemicals.

“In 2003, 3M shared its sludge contamination study with the EPA, but the agency did not take significant steps to address the issue.”

Intriguingly, it was not the corporations alone that carry the blame for this environmental disaster. In 2003, 3M shared its sludge contamination study with the EPA, but the agency did not take significant steps to address the issue. The fertilizer industry continued to promote the use of sewage sludge, and farmers, unaware of the risks, spread the material on their fields.

Recent developments suggest a shift in how the U.S. approaches PFAS contamination. In 2024, the EPA designated two types of PFAS as hazardous substances under the Superfund law. This designation allows for stricter regulation and cleanup efforts. The agency also stated that there is no safe level of exposure to these chemicals in drinking water and mandated near-zero levels in water supplies.

“…the EPA needs to extend its regulations to sewage sludge.”

Experts argue that the EPA needs to extend its regulations to sewage sludge. According to the NYT piece, Arjun K. Venkatesan, a researcher at the New Jersey Institute of Technology, emphasizes that there is enough evidence to warrant immediate action. “The high levels of contaminants in sludge are a public health concern,” he said.

Some communities are already taking matters into their own hands. Cities like Burlington, North Carolina, and Calhoun, Georgia, have enacted measures to limit PFAS discharges from local industries. In one case, a textile manufacturer stopped using PFAS entirely after being pressured to clean up its wastewater.

What Can Be Done?

Addressing PFAS contamination in sewage sludge requires testing and regulation, source control, safer alternatives, and public awareness.
The contamination of farmland with PFAS is a pressing environmental and public health issue. While the EPA has made some progress, much work remains to be done to protect the nation’s food supply and water resources. One can only hope that the Make America Healthy Again (MAHA) movement will greatly improve these efforts.

As 3M winds down its production of PFAS by the end of 2025, the focus must shift to addressing the legacy of these “forever chemicals.” Farmers, scientists, and policymakers must work together to ensure that our farmland is safe for future generations.

For the consumer, there are options as well. Step one is becoming aware of the problem, as well as demanding the disclosure of soil contamination with forever chemicals. Finally, whenever possible, you should look for organic products and, where possible, those grown with regenerative organic agriculture.

This post is based on an article by Hiroko Tabuchi, published in the NYT on Dec 27, 2024. More about Hiroko Tabuchi